Kenji Lopez-Alt's Garlic Noodles

Step 1: Cook the pasta according to package instructions in unsalted water until barely al dente .

Step 2: Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large skillet or saucepan over medium heat.

Step 3: Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant but not browned, about 2 minutes.

Step 4: Add the oyster sauce, soy sauce, and fish sauce and stir to combine.

Step 5: Using tongs (or long chopsticks if you're adept with them), transfer the cooked noodles to the garlic sauce. It's ok if a little of the cooking water transfers with the noodles.

Step 6: Increase heat to high, add cheese and scallions, and stir and toss vigorously until the sauce is creamy and emulsified, about 30 seconds.

Step 7: If sauce looks too watery, let it keep reducing. If it looks greasy, splash some more pasta water into it and let it reemulsify.

Step 8: Optional: sprinkle with sliced scallions and salted roe such as cod roe or bottaga.

Step 9: Serve immediately.