Risotto Alla Milanese

Step 1: Pour 1/2 cup of the hot stock over the saffron in a small heatproof bowl. Let it stand.

Step 2: In a heavy, wide 3- to 4-quart casserole or pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Cook the onions and shallots together until golden, stirring often, about 8 minutes. Add the rice and stir to coat with the oil. Toast the rice until the edges become translucent 1 to 2 minutes.

Step 3: Pour in the wine and stir well until evaporated. Add 1/2 cup of the remaining hot stock and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt. Cook, stirring constantly, until all the stock has been absorbed.

Step 4: Continue to add hot stock in small batches — just enough to completely moisten the rice — and cook until each successive batch has been absorbed. About 10 minutes after the first addition of stock, stir in the saffron mixture. Stir constantly and adjust the level of heat so the rice is simmering very gently until the rice mixture is creamy but al dente. This will take 16 to 20 minutes from the time the wine was added.

Step 5: Remove the casserole from the heat. Beat in the butter until completely melted and then beat in the cheese. Adjust the seasoning with salt, if necessary, and pepper.

Step 6: Serve immediately, ladled into warm shallow bowls.