Pasta alla Genoves Neapolitan Beef and Onion Ragù

Step 1: Season beef all over with salt and pepper; set aside and let sit for at least 45 minutes before cooking.

Step 2: Meanwhile, in a large Dutch oven, heat olive oil over medium-high heat until shimmering.

Step 3: Add carrots and celery, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, about 5 minutes.

Step 4: Add roughly 1/3 of the onions, season lightly with salt, and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are also softened but not browned, about 5 minutes.

Step 5: Add tomato paste, don't burn.

Step 6: Add 1/4 cup wine.

Step 7: Use a wooden spoon to stir and scrape the bottom and sides of the pot to release any stuck-on bits, then spread onion mixture into an even layer covering bottom of the pot.

Step 8: Reduce heat to medium-low and add beef, nestling pieces into onion mixture in a single layer.

Step 9: Cover beef with remaining onions, add bay leaf, season lightly with salt and pepper,

Step 10: Cover pot with lid.

Step 11: Cook, uncovering and stirring occasionally to ensure vegetables and beef aren't sticking to bottom of the pot, until onions are very soft and have released their moisture, about 1 hour.

Step 12: Adjust heat as needed to maintain a gentle, steady simmer, and try to keep a layer of onion mixture between beef and bottom of the pot.

Step 13: Crack lid slightly so that pot is not completely covered and continue to cook until beef is tender, offering little resistance when pressed with a wooden spoon or poked with a paring knife, about 1 hour and 30 minutes longer.

Step 14: Add tomatoes last 30 minutes.

Step 15: Last 30 minutes, cook pasta of choice.

Step 16: Drain saving 1/2 cup pasta water.

Step 17: Using tongs, remove beef and bay leaf.

Step 18: Set beef aside to cool slightly and discard bay leaf.

Step 19: Add pasta.

Step 20: And 1/2 cup pasta water and add parsley and cheese, toss.