Kabocha (or Butternut) Squash Spaetzle

Step 1: Half and peel the squash. Remove the seeds and discard. Cut the squash into roughly 2-inch cubes. Put into a large pot with about 1/2-inch of water. Cover and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain and let cool for a few minutes.

Step 2: Puree the squash in a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Measure out 3 cups and return to the food processor along with the eggs, the 1/4 cup olive oil, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. (Reserve any remaining squash for another use.) Process until completely smooth, scraping down the bowl once or twice with a rubber spatula.

Step 3: Add 1 cup of the flour and continue processing, adding more flour if needed, to make a mixture that is about the consistency of thick muffin batter. The amount of flour needed will depend on the moisture content of the squash.

Step 4: Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Use a rubber spatula to push 1/2 cup of the dough at a time through a large-holed cheese grater so that the batter falls in "fingers" into the boiling water. Stir gently with a wooden spoon to break up any clumps of spaetzle until they rise to the top and are tender, 30 seconds to a minute.

Step 5: Use a fine mesh strainer to scoop out and transfer the spaetzle to a large bowl of ice water. Repeat with the remaining dough. Drain the spaetzle thoroughly, put in a bowl, and toss with a little olive oil just to coat them. (Once they are cool and oiled, the spaetzle can be refrigerated in a resealable plastic bag for up to 3 days and finished just before serving.)

Step 6: Just before serving, melt the butter in a large skillet over medium-heat until lit just begins to turn golden. Add half of the shiitakes and saute until they begin to soften, about 2 minutes. Add half of the spaetzle and saute until they turn golden in places, about 5 minutes longer. Transfer to a large shallow serving bowl and cover loosely to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining shiitakes and spaetzle. Toss the arugula into the hot spaetzle until is is wilted. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve family style.

NOTE: You can substitute butternut squash or a baking pumpkin such as the sugar pie variety or even canned pumpkin, adjusting the amount of flour to the moisture content of the squash.