California Roll Salad

Step 1: Into a large saucepan of salted boiling water stir rice and boil 10 minutes. Drain rice in a colander and rinse.

Step 2: Set colander over a kettle of boiling water (rice should not touch water) and steam rice, covered with a kitchen towel and lid, until fluffy and dry, 10 to

Step 3: 15 minutes (check water level in kettle occasionally, adding water if necessary).

Step 4: While rice is steaming, in a small saucepan bring 1/4 cup vinegar to a boil with sugar and salt, stirring until sugar is dissolved, and remove from heat.

Step 5: In a dry small skillet toast sesame seeds over moderate heat, stirring, until golden and fragrant and transfer to a small bowl.

Step 6: Transfer rice to a large bowl and stir in vinegar mixture. Cool rice and stir in sesame seeds, remaining 3 tablespoons vinegar, oil, ginger, scallions, carrot, and cucumber.

Step 7: Salad may be prepared up to this point 1 day ahead and chilled, covered. Bring salad to room temperature before proceeding.

Step 8: Dry-roast nori, 1 sheet at a time, directly above moderate heat (gas or electric burner), holding it at opposite corners and moving it back and forth, until it turns bright green, 30 seconds to 1 minute.

Step 9: With scissors cut nori into thin 2-inch-long strips.

Step 10: Peel and pit avocado. Quarter avocado and cut crosswise into thin slices.

Step 11: Add avocado to salad with surimi if using and two thirds of nori strips and toss well.

MAKE THE DRESSING

Step 12: In a small bowl stir wasabi powder into hot water and stir in cold water, soy sauce, and ginger juice.

Step 13: Serve salad sprinkled with remaining nori strips and drizzled with dressing.