Bucatini With Tomato, Pancetta and Chilies

Step 1: Bring a large pot of boiling salted water to a boil over high heat. Add bucatini and cook until al dente, about 8 minutes. Drain, reserving a cup of cooking water, and set aside.

Step 2: Dice pancetta into pieces about the size of large peas. Set aside near stove.

Step 3: Place tomatoes in a bowl and use your hands to mash them, discarding any stem bits you find. Stir in fish sauce and set aside near pancetta.

Step 4: In a large, wide saucepan heat oil over medium heat. Add pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp and smoking, about 8 minutes. Add chili flakes and mashed tomato (careful, it will sizzle!), and stir to combine.

Step 5: Raise heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring frequently, until mixture thickens slightly, about 3 minutes.

Step 6: Lower heat slightly, taste and add salt or fish sauce for depth, or a splash of reserved cooking water to mellow the flavor to your taste.

Step 7: Add pasta and toss to coat well, adding a touch of pasta water if necessary to coat fully.

Step 8: Add 2/3 of the cheese, toss again, then divide among individual pasta bowls or plates. Top with the remaining cheese.